2nd Time's a Charm
Rome/Roma, Italia
I am a sucker for true history, especially of the Roman variety. Following a trail of breadcrumbs to something intriguing or ancient is my idea of a phenomenal, not to mention rare, adventure. Before the age of 12 my birthdays came with rolled sheets of paper singed on the edges with clues written in my mother’s best swash-buckling english. After adorning myself in the proper attire and weaponry, usually a sizable stick, my friends and I would proceed to the dirt road around the lake behind our house and try to follow the clues on the map to find the treasure.
The forest was thick and full of vines which we frequently employed swinging among the branches when the marsh below was impossible to traverse without ruining shoes. As we traversed the woods we told stories of what may be lurking among us, trying to scare one another.
The most memorable hiding place to find our treasure, which was mostly golden Twinkies and sparkling lollipop rings, was atop a hill where remnants of an old deserted graveyard remained. The earth had slowly began the digestion process as the broken stones were grown over by green grass, barely recognizable.
With smiles on our faces and whipped cream lodged at the corners of our mouths we hiked back to my house triumphantly singing, “Henry the eighth I am, Henry the eighth I am, I got married to the widow next door. She’s been married seven times before. Everyone was a Henry, she wouldn’t have a Willy or a Sam, NO SAM. I’m her eighth old man. I’m Henry, Henry the eighth, I am.
Ever since then, I’ve loved a great adventure, the kind the unexpected frequents, the kind the the exceptional and unique still hover like apparitions awaiting their sentence or stay of execution. They wait as if they themselves will be rediscovered and brought back to former glory, if only in the world’s textbooks.
What better stadium to untangle truth from lies than Rome, Italy.
The Period of the Kings, 625-510 BC
Republican Rome, 510-31BC
Imperial Rome 31-476 AD
As far as mystery, intrigue, betrayal and the beauty of a well devised scheme brought about by weighty leverage, Rome was at the precipice of political deviance whilst creating some of the most beautiful works of art and architecture in the world.
Truthfully, the art, along with the exorbitantly manicured history of Italy has always had me well under its spell, thanks to my first Roman History and Art History Classes in College.
My first trip to Italy was in 1999. It was only three weeks long, one for Tuscany, one for Rome and one for Amalfi. As you can imagine, we weren’t able to see a quarter of the sites on my list.
This visit to Italy was Vastly different.
The flight from Panama to Atlanta was decent. Honestly I think I slept through most of it. The flight to Rome-Fiumicino was long and arduous, however, the puzzlement on Chris’s face as we approached will never be forgotten.
“That’s Rome?” he said, after pulling the window shade up following the captains announcement of imminent landing. “It is,” I said. He didn’t look impressed. The Fiumicino airport was built well away from the sites of Rome. When flying in from our vantage there wasn’t much to see. “We just have to hop on a short train and we will be in the Eternal City.” I said, beaming, not even attempting to hide my delight at being back.
From the train we saw glimpses of ancient Rome, mere snapshots in a scrapbook, not nearly adequate to feel the true antiquity and genuine weight of the city.
After departing the train station we used the ingenious services of a luggage storage facility, where, for a nominal fee, we shed our heavy packs and walked around for a few hours free of our heavy burden.
We received our check in instructions from our host at dusk and thus began the frustrating task of finding a taxi to drive us the 25 minutes to our sorely needed pillows.
The apartment was perfect and extremely comfortable with a King bed, hard to find in a Booking or Air B & B stay. I was so tired I left a sock halfway on, falling asleep during the removal procedure.
We were both out like lights.
Our first real day in Rome started with a mediocre cup of coffee from a K cup machine and a harrowing taxi ride. Our driver made quick work of the drive, however, driving on the tram/train tracks. My eyes were shut the majority of the ride.
The morning taxi rides were the same every morning, 25 minutes of dodging trains. In retrospect we spent as much, or more money on taxi rides to and from our apartment on the outskirts of Rome than we would have if we found an apartment in Rome. Not to mention the few times we walked part of the way due to not finding an available taxi.
When our stay outside Rome was complete we found a beautiful apartment in Rome proper, right above a coffee shop and steps from a small grocery store with a large selection of wine. Our first meal we had in our cozy kitchen was a fresh caprese salad and a bottle of wine with dark chocolate for dessert, Bellissimo!
From our apartment we could access nearly everything on foot or on scooters, there was rarely a need for taxi’s.
Rome is a busy city, especially near the ancient sites. Getting shots of antiquity without hordes of people in them can be difficult. At night, however, Rome is awash with light from street lamps and outdoor restaurant seating. It made capturing the sites less congested and photography a bit easier.
Indeed, Chris and I found our niche photographing Rome at night or in the early morning.
Many nights we were the last patrons at restaurants and our waiter’s often sat to have drinks with us. The conversations were slow as Chris used his phone translator, however, we learned a myriad of information about how to be in Rome, as Romans do.
Whether from our trusty scooters or on foot we saw the Eternal City in all its ancient glory. Rounding corners to be stunned by another church façade never lost it’s wonder nor would it for the remainder of our search for our forever home.
With the occasional crane reaching to touch the Gods above or scaffolding bracing beautifully decrepit doors, the city of Rome basks in its history of antiquity and architecture, not to mention architecture as art.
“I could live here.” I told Chris on our last day in Rome.
“So could I,” he said.
Tips
Do not order a cappuccino after noon.
The last sightseeing tour through the coliseum every night is the one to get on. You get to stay a little bit longer, if you’re lucky.
Both men and women must have their knees covered to enter any church. Women also have to have their shoulders covered.
The Pantheon is a Roman Catholic Church, same rules as above apply.
Rome is a very gracious city full of life and smiles. Romans are proud of their heritage and food as with the rest of Italy. I’ve had more than one waiter show me the correct way to eat what is on my plate. Listen, you will learn something.